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Used Car Buying Guide 

First of all, know what model you are looking. If you have not decided on this, read our Deciding on you car to help id your decision.

 

Don’t keep your options excessively open with too much car models on your wish list. Narrow them to as few as possible. It would then be much easier for you to compare and determine the car’s condition.

 

Take your time don’t be pressured by “Sales Talk”. Go and test drive as many cars as possible until you are convinced and satisfied.

 

Checking the car

 

1 – Exterior

          Take a walk around the car and examine the car’s paintwork. Look for dents, rust, broken head lights, tail lights, signal lights. Check the rims for scratches. Look at the car from different angles so that minor dents can more easily be spotted. What you don’t want to buy is a car which has been in a serious accident.

 

A dent door or a broken bumper is something we can live with, what we don’t want is a car with its chassis damaged. Pop the bonnet and check the support frames of the car. Check the welding to look for any obvious signs that the car has been sawed off and welded back together. Make sure all the gaps between panels are evenly spaced.

 

The best way to check this is through a service provider. However not all countries have services like this. How it works is that uou pay them a fee and you can check on a car’s insurance claim history. This will tell you weather it has been in any accident. Search around the internet to find if this service exists in your country.

 

2 – Interior

          Check the trunk, and floor mats for stains and odor. This is a sign that water is getting into the car. Check the seat belts. It should lock up when pulling it hard. Check the seats, door panels and dashboard for tear. Be sure to check all electrical features like electrical seats, CD players, wipers, signal lights, head lights and high beam. Make sure all the gauges in the dash are working. When the engine is turn on, there should not be any waning lights on or flashing. Be very careful if you do see any warning lights as some repairs might be very costly to fix.

 

Be sure to check if the air conditioning is working. Change the temperature and test weather the temperature of the air changes accordingly.

 

3 – Engine Check

          A dirty engine bay is a obvious sign of poorly maintained engine. Check if there are any signs of oil or fluid leaks. Check all the hose for any cracks. If you are meeting a private seller, go there about 20 minutes earlier. You may find the owner preparing the car for you visit to cover up some defects. If possible arrange to meet early in the morning. It would be good if you could see how the car starts with a cold engine. Once the car is in its operating temperature, check if the car idles properly. Look under the car where it was being parked for signs of oil leaks. When the car is in operating temperature, open the bonnet take note of abnormal smells that might be due to leaking fluids on hot engine parts. Listen for unusual noises, in the engine compartment when the engine is running. Get a friend to rev the engine while you inspect the engine. When revved hard check the sides of the engine block and header and make sure no fluid is leaking out. If water does appear or worse gushing out, this is a sign of a blown head gasket which will be costly to repair. Although the seller may have recently changed or topped up the engine oil. Still you should check the engine oil level using the dip stick. If the oil level is low and very dark in color, don’t even consider getting the vehicle. Also go the back of the car and get your friend to rev the engine hard several times. Make sure there is no excessive smoke especially if the smoke is white. A little black smoke is fine. Excessive black smoke is a sign that the engine is worn and consumes oil.   

 

4 – Suspension check

Check the shock absorber for leaks. If you can’t see clearly, it is best to bring a torch light along with you. When going for a test drive, try to look for humps to go over and take note of overly soft suspension. (worn springs) the suspension should go down then up then down again. If it bounces up and down to many times, that’s a sign of a worn shock absorber. Look of for creaking sounds coming from the suspension. Go down and depress each corner of the car to see if it responds the same.

 

5 – Transmission and Clutch

On an automatic/manual transmission car, make sure the gear shift is smooth.

For manual transmission Check if all gears can be engaged easily without unnecessary resistance and sound. Accelerate hard in second gear and quickly shift up to third with a lot of throttle. If engine rpm rise without a corresponding increase in speed, the clutch could be slipping. It may need to be replaced or adjusted.

Try to build up the revs to about 4500-5000 rpm and change gears as quickly as you can, there should be no abnormal noises. Also if a gear jumps out to neutral while driving, walk away.

 

6 – Brakes

Tap the bakes several times at different speeds applying different pressure to the bakes. Also try an emergency brake and see if the car pulls to one side. If the car comes with ABS, the wheels should not lock during and emergency brake, you should feel the brake pedals vibrating when ABS is active. Also check to see if the parking brakes holds the car firmly and releases completely.

 

7 – Steering & Tires

Do a U turn fully locking the steering wheels. Do this for both left and right turns. There should not be any chattering noise coming from the wheels. If it does, this is a sign that the drive shaft is faulty. When driving on a smooth road surface, let go of the steering wheel and see if the steering wheels turns to one side. Check if the steering wheel is centered when driving straight. On high speed, there should not be any excessive vibration coming from the steering wheel. Check the tires if they wear evenly. All these are signs that the car is out of alignment.

 


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